The White Towns of Andalucia - by Donna Dailey

We turned off the main road into the Andalucian countryside, following a dark ribbon of asphalt through golden yellow fields strewn with rocks and grazing sheep. There was not a pothole – or another vehicle – in sight. ‘Puts British roads to shame, for the kind of place it’s in,’ my husband remarked, grinning as we sailed through a magical forest of cork oaks.

Although it seemed remote, our idyllic backcountry road was less than an hour away from the booming beaches of the Costa del Sol. A short drive inland from almost anywhere along the coast between Málaga and Cádiz brings you to some of Spain’s most stunning scenery.

Chains of ruggedly beautiful mountains form the backdrop to a picture book of rural views. Vast fields of sunflowers ripple across the valleys. Real black fighting bulls – more often seen on hilltop billboards advertising sherry – look deceptively peaceful grazing in their sun-baked pastures. And nestled in the craggy slopes and mountaintops are the pueblos blancos or ‘white towns’.

These villages, with their old Moorish castles, whitewashed houses and tiled roofs gleaming in the bright sunlight, are among the region’s most picturesque sights. They beckon as you meander through the countryside, inviting you to stop and explore their winding streets, churches and central plazas. Most give little more than a passing nod to tourism, and you can observe traditional village life much as it’s always been.

Ronda is the queen bee of the white towns. Dramatically perched on the ridge of a deep rocky gorge that splits the town in half, its buildings cling precariously to either side. A monumental arched bridge, built in the 18th-century, spans the dizzying drop. First settled in Celtic times, Ronda’s defensive position made it a provincial capital under the Moors and later a bandit refuge.

The bridge connects the old Moorish town, the Ciudad, and the new commercial quarter, the Mercadillo. From the centre, if you can bear to look down, there are stupendous views over the gorge and countryside. The narrow maze of streets in the Ciudad leads to old Arab baths, lovely Renaissance mansions, a Moorish palace and museum, and the cathedral church on the palm-fringed central square. The Mercadillo boasts one of the oldest, largest and possibly most famous bullrings in Spain, where the rules of bullfighting were laid down in the 1780s.

Unlike the other white towns, Ronda is big and busy and has plenty of museums and attractions to visit. It’s worth spending a night here to soak up the atmosphere after the crowds have gone. Ronda is also a good jumping-off point for a spectacular drive through the pueblos blancos scattered amongst the mountains of the Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema.

This natural park is an important environmental area in Andalucia. Many of its plant species date from before the Ice Age, including the rare pinsapo, or Spanish fir, native only to this region. The limestone peaks are home to the Spanish ibex, a threatened species, while eagles, vultures, owls and woodpeckers are among the park’s rich birdlife. In order to protect the wildlife, permits are needed for walking in the park, available free from the information offices in Grazalema and El Bosque.

From the coast road, we headed inland near Estepona, taking in two impressive white towns on the way. Casares is draped along a steep hillside below a Moorish fortress, the Alcazar, from which you can see Gibraltar on a clear day. A few miles beyond through olive-studded hillsides is Gaucín, a large, delightful, mountain village guarded by its own castillo (castle) which affords fine views back down to the coast.

Further north, Grazalema is the eastern gateway to the park. This pretty village is stunningly set beneath the distinctive rock mass of the Peñón Grande. Following signs towards Ubrique, we set off in a clockwise direction around the park. Soon we passed the highest village in Cádiz province, Villaluenga del Rosario, perched below the peaks of the Sierra del Caillo.

Emerging from a rocky valley called La Manga (the sleeve), we stopped for a stroll in Benaocaz, a typical white town founded by the Moors in the 8th century, set against wooded slopes and limestone crags. On the outskirts of the village, Plaza de Vista Hermosa, which means ‘beautiful view’, lives up to its name. Walking down through the village, we came to the central Plaza de las Libertades, ringed with pillars bearing ceramic tiles showing local scenes.

Back on the road, we bypassed Ubrique, a large, busy town on the southern edge of the park, known for its leather-making. We carried on towards El Bosque, the park’s western gateway. The little town is pleasant enough, but unless you need to visit a cashpoint, restaurant or the tourist office, there’s no real reason to stop. Shortly before town, a right turn (signposted Benamahoma, Ronda, Grazalema) took us into the heart of the park.

The road climbed higher into the mountains, passing Benamahoma, another lovely white town, on our left and rugged limestone peaks on our right. We stopped at a mirador, or viewpoint, called Puerto de El Boyar, to admire the fabulous view back down the valley. Shortly beyond we turned left towards Zahara.

Surrounded by a lush mountain landscape of cork and holm oak, pinsapo and pine, we entered the most dramatic section of the park. Climbing slowly up a string of thrilling hairpin bends, we reached the Puerto de Las Palomas, the Pass of the Doves, at 1,357 metres the high point of the drive. From the mirador, the panoramic view over the surrounding plains is simply stupendous.

Coasting slowly down the S-bends on the northern side of the pass, we soaked up more grand scenery as we headed for Zahara de la Sierra, possibly the finest of the pueblos blancos. The town centre is itself a national monument. The tower of its 12th-century Moorish castle stands atop a rugged outcrop, with the red-tiled roofs of the white houses spread invitingly below.

Zahara’s cobbled main street is bounded by two churches, with a viewing balcony at the far end overlooking a reservoir far below. At the other end, the outdoor tables of Los Naranjos restaurant spill out onto the small square. It was the perfect spot to relax over a long lunch before winding our way back down through Ronda to the coast.