Hidden France: Languedoc Roussillon France’s best kept secret by road- by Laurence Phillips
Oysters from blue lagoons, dances with winegrowers, jousting on the canals and quality time with goats, lions and flamingos: there is more to the South of France than lying on the beach.
Low cost flights from across the UK to four local airports have made Languedoc Roussillon the most talked about secret in France. A world away from Riviera glitz, the “other” south, a stretch of the Med from the Camargue, where wild white horses gallop through wetlands, to the Spanish border mountains of the Pyrenees.
You could weekend on a city break, posing in a chic café on the place de la Comédie in Montpellier, sightseeing in Perpignan or wandering through Roman ruins in Nîmes. But the good stuff is beyond the reach of the airport shuttle bus and TGV high speed railway. It would be a sin not to get in the car and hit the open roads.
Fifteen minutes from the airport and you might spot your first flock of flamingos, a shimmering pink cloud feeding on the waters of the many étangs (Mediterranean lagoons) lining the coast, half an hour inland and you could find the tree-lined Canal du Midi winding its way to the Atlantic. Everywhere, shady lanes bordered by unending rows of vines, Europe’s largest wine region, with literally thousands of vineyards to explore.
This is the true South of fresh fish, blue and yellow pottery and bizarre local sports. Traditional bullfighting takes place in Nîmes, but in Aigues Mortes, at the Courses Camarguaises, men snatch ribbons from horns of young bulls who always live to play another day. A regional alternative to tennis is played with tambourines. The port of Sète, criss-crossed Venice-style by grand canals, does not have gondoliers, it has champion jousters. Water jousting, fishermen weilding shields and lances, is the big summer sport in ports along the coast: Sète’s St Louis championships as important as the world cup.
Most eccentric of all is the Capelet, in the village of Marseillan on the banks of the Etang de Thau. The game dates from the days of bucanneers and sail. Lads race up a ships mast, smothered in grease and suspended over the waters, to grab a hat, winning applause, money and the favour of the prettiest girl in the village. Watch the fun from a table with local Picpoul de Pinet white wine and a plate of the Etang’s famous oysters. Marseillan has two dozen restaurants: The Taverne du Port’s fresh catch of the day, Chez Philippe’s fashionable stylish menus and the Chateau du Port, latest home to multi-Michelin-starred twin chefs Laurent and Jacques Pourcel, where lunch starts at €20. Vegetarians even have their own menu at the dotty Jardin de Naris.
Montpellier may be a city where a park-and-ride tram ticket beats traffic jams, but you need wheels to find these other treats away from the regional capital. Clermont l’Herault railway station is proof of that. The ticket office opens every day and the station master is always cheerful. The reason for the stress free welcome is the simple fact that no trains have come anywhere near his station for years. Even the tracks have long disappeared in favour of a car park. For Wednesday’s market, follow crowds and aromas to stalls selling fresh herbs, cheese, breads and fish. Any day visit the olive oil co-operative - not just for extra virgin oils, but hefty bars of soap made with local herbs – amazing bargains.
Just five minutes out of town (follow signs to Bedarieux and the D908) is the teeny city of Villeneuvette – smaller than a football stadium. Like the set of a Depardieu costume drama, fresh spring water trickles over the cobbles, artists work in their shady studios and you can lunch of fine cuisine for €23 at La Source – a family run hotel restaurant. Or drive past Villeneuvette and keep going for ten more minutes to Cirque du Val Moureze, stunning natural rock formations (another lovely inn there for supper –Auberge de la Moureze – even on Christmas Day we paid just €20 a head for lunch) and close to the Lac du Salagou.
Another day, drive up to St Guilhem le Desert. This hilltop village, above the Gorges of the river Herault, has its stunning church on the pilgrim’s route of Santiago de Compostella, quaint streets with houses home to potters and artists. Beyond the village is the Bout du Monde, a breathtaking walk through magnificent scenery.
No trip out into the country will leave you hungry. Lovers of cheese should head to the Mas Roland. From the coast, follow the D13, skirting Pézenas (stop and explore on your way home, perhaps) through Roujan to Gabian. A faded advertising mural on a wall advertises “Dubo, Dubon, Dubonnet”. Turn right and keep going along the narrowing tracks to Montesquieu/Mas Roland until you hear the goat bells and smell the pelardon in the dairy. Pet the goats, then watch them being milked when they trot into their stalls like old ladies at an old-fashioned hairdressers (around 5pm). Taste cheeses before buying. The farm also sells fabulous wild flower honeys and good wines from neighbouring producers.
The promise of playing with goats (especially newborn kids in the spring, should keep your own kids quiet in the back seat) Another excellent bribe is the prospect of lions, bears and elephants at Sigean’s African Game Reserve. This should guarantee good behaviour as grown ups indulge themselves with a couple of stops en route.
Come off the A9 motorway at Narbonne Sud, take the N9 (direction Perpignan) then first left when you see the sign for Bages - improbably quaint hilltop town, almost Italian in its beauty. Climb rickety streets for amazing lakeland views and stumble across the tiny main square, which looks like a set from a Ruritanian opera. Back in the car, follow signs (maybe stop for walk in the nature reserve) through lakes and hills to Peyriac de Mer, part of the Corbières wine region. A winery - Château de Peyriac - has excellent 2001 AOC Corbières, 5 litres for €15, easy to transport home. The Café du Centre on the village square serves three course steak lunch with wine for just €11.
October and November, visit Herault winegrowers celebrating their Vin Primeur new wines. Pay €4 for a wineglass and tipples will flow all evening as you dance to jazz bands and party with the locals.
In late autumn and winter two worlds collide. The Med remains sunny at Cap d’Agde, Collioure and La Grande Motte. But head inland. Past the mediaeval city of Carcassonne (out of season, a picture book fortress come to life), past Limoux (sparkling wines to rival champagne) , through Aude’s Pays Cathar (ruined castles and multicoloured forests), and up along the Plateau de Sault: just two hours from the coast, a miniature Switzerland. Then, cow bells, chalets, ski lifts and the snowy mountains of Ax: three wintersports resorts defying everything you thought you knew about a Mediterranean escape – after the beach – après ski!
Links etc
www.sunfrance.com – Languedoc-Roussillon tourist office
www.marseillanvillage.com – holidays in Marseillan
www.hoteldelasource.com - Villeneuvette
www.aubergedevalmoureze.com - Val Moureze
www.reserveafricainesigean.fr - African Game Reserve in Sigean
www.chateau-peyriacdemer.com – wine of Peyriac
www.vallees-ax.com ski resorts of Ax
Other Restaurants mentioned:
Taverne du Port 00 33 (0) 4 67 01 78 78
Chez Philippe 00 33 (0) 4 67 01 70 62
Chateau du Port 00 33 (0) 4 67 77 31 67
Jardin de Naris 00 33 (0) 4 67 77 30 07
Café du Centre 00 33 (0) 4 68 41 49 42
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